But you're here, not there, so you can see for yourself what a quaint, pretty place it is. Before you go exploring, it will help to understand some basics.

Finding your way around this special part of the world that was settled in the 1600s is as simple as knowing the direction you're headed; what the two major roadways are; the difference between towns, villages and hamlets; and where your copy of the North Fork & Shelter Island Vacation Guide is so you'll know what your options are for a quiet getaway or an action-packed vacation.

- Geography

The North Fork was formed by the Wisconsin glacier that crept down from the north and left a moraine of rich soil perfect for growing things. It runs from Wading River in the west to Orient Point in the east and is the northern counterpart to the South Fork (a.k.a. the Hamptons). The East End, which is what this part of Long Island is called, looks like a sideways peace sign. It encompasses five towns: Riverhead and Southold towns on the North Fork, Southampton and East Hampton towns on the South Fork, and Shelter Island in between. The towns, in turn, are composed of villages and hamlets that stretch out more or less in a straight line for the entire length of each fork.

Riverhead Town extends east from Wading River to Laurel. Southold Town picks up in Laurel and extends east to Orient Point. It's easy to get acclimated to the North Fork because of its shape, its water borders and its limited number of "main" roads -- two, to be exact. They both run east/west, so if you're on either, you shouldn't get lost. The North Fork is a long peninsula that narrows as you head east. Just remember: The bays are south, the Long Island Sound is north, Orient is east, and Riverhead (and NYC) is west...

- Roadways & Railways

Beware of official map names for major east/west roads. Our main east/west route is the Main Road, but it's officially called Route 58 from the Long Island Expressway (I-495) terminus in Riverhead until it intersects with north/south Route 105 in Aquebogue (a hamlet in Riverhead Town). It then becomes Route 25 and stays fairly straight all the way to downtown Greenport, where it makes a left and then a right onto the North Fork's other east/west road: the North Road, also known as Sound Avenue, Route 48 and Truck Route 25. From that point to land's end in Orient Point, it remains Route 25.

The two-lane Main Road runs through the business centers of most hamlets and villages and can be slow going, especially on yard-sale Saturdays in the summer and fall harvest weekends. The North Road -- two lanes in some parts and four in others -- is less developed and less traveled than the Main Road, but if you get stuck behind a tractor or Sunday driver, you may lose your easygoing North Fork nature waiting to pass. Both roads run past most of the area's farmstands and wineries, and lead directly or indirectly to public beaches.

You can get to the North Fork from NYC via Sunrise Coach Lines and Long Island Rail Road. The buses are more comfortable and convenient, since the LIRR makes only a couple trips a day this far east. But locals often drive to the Ronkonkoma station at LIE exit 60 to pick up the train there.

To get here from New England, drive around or take the ferry from New London, CT, to Orient Point. From Greenport (in Southold Town), you can take a 10-minute ferry to Shelter Island. You can then drive across Shelter Island (10 minutes) and take a five-minute ferry to North Haven on the South Fork. You can also drive around to the Hamptons and points west.

- Environment

The North Fork is a fragile place whose protection is essential to its survival. Drinking water comes from an underground sole-source aquifer affected by what goes into the ground. Many homes and businesses have cesspools and wells, though public water is now offered in many communities.

Beaches and bluffs erode during storms and other natural occurrences, so violations of laws that protect them are serious. Before doing anything that tampers with nature -- from walking on bluffs to digging clams to adding a deck -- call Town Hall and ask what the rules are.

The North Fork is a habitat for countless species of wildlife, so pay attention to postings about trespassing and other precautionary measures. You'll also see numerous manmade osprey nests on poles. To avoid agitating these graceful fish hawks, use binoculars for closeups.

The bays and Sound are still relatively pristine this far east. There are efforts under way to replenish the shellfish population and protect other fish, so it's important to know and follow fishing, shellfishing and boating rules.

The environment vs. development is an ongoing struggle aimed at keeping Long Island's last frontier from becoming suburban sprawl.

- Government

Both Riverhead and Southold towns are governed by elected Town Boards headed by elected town supervisors. Southold's supervisor is Josh Horton; Riverhead's is Bob Kozakiewicz. Greenport, in Southold Town, is the only incorporated village on the North Fork. It has a mayor, David Kapell, and an elected Village Board. The towns have their own police departments, and state and county police serve the North Fork in some capacities. The East End's fire departments and related ambulance services are all-volunteer. As two of 10 towns in Suffolk County, Riverhead and Southold send one elected representative (Mike Caracciolo) to the County Legislature. Riverhead is the county seat.

The North Fork has a representative in the State Assembly in Albany (Pat Acampora). Ken LaValle represents the entire East End in the State Senate. Felix Grucci is the region's U.S. congressman.

- Economy

For most of the North Fork's past, farming and fishing were the core of the economy. And while many farms have made way for subdivisions and many fishermen have been forced into alternate careers, both are largely responsible for what is now undisputedly the North Fork's biggest revenue source: tourism.

The heritage of the land and water draws visitors and residents. But there are many farms left, as you can see from all the farmstands. And boats still work local waters, reaping clams, mussels, oysters, scallops, bluefish, flounder and other favorites. The beaches and boating have always been major attractions.

The local economy has evolved in a way that's allowed much of its history to survive. When the potato market went flat, farmers diversified into a variety of vegetables and fruits. Greenhouses and nurseries also sprang up.

But the most drastic economic change in recent times is the emergence of the grape industry, starting in 1973. The realization that the local climate rivals that of France's best wine-growing regions did more than create another source of revenue; it saved farmland, boosted tourism and created jobs. There are now attractive wineries from Riverhead to Greenport, a few more on the South Fork and others on the way. They offer tastings, tours, special events and settings for weddings. Local wines have won prestigious awards and are being marketed globally.

Meanwhile, the mammoth Tanger Outlet Center in Riverhead has put the North Fork on the retail map. Atlantis Marine World aquarium is helping rejuvenate downtown Riverhead. Horse farms, galleries and other arts-related endeavors are playing a helpful economic and aesthetic role as well. The Internet is also changing the economic picture, as telecommuting enables people to settle down in their former vacation spot.

Enjoy your stay, be it brief or permanent.