the quiet tour...
Harnessing paddle power to discover the region's hidden beauty

By Bob Liepa
Welcome to the historic North Fork -- a region of peacefulness and natural beauty a mere 100 miles from midtown Manhattan.

In this age of modern technology, where busy people are bombarded by electronic images, e-mails, faxes, telemarketers and the like, it's sometimes good to get away from it all. Many have learned to leave their stress on the shore, along with their cell phones and beepers, while they enjoy their own "Fortress of Solitude" on the calm, peaceful waters of eastern Long Island.

Canoeing and kayaking are just that: a great escape -- a way to get away from it all and get some exercise in the process.

"What it does is get you away from all the land static. It allows you to step back," says Doug Murphy, owner of the Eagle's Neck Paddling Company in Southold. "I think people are wrapped up so much in technology, they are looking forward to a way to get back to the basics. I think connecting with nature is a way to get back to the basics. I think connecting with nature is a way of getting back to reality. It gives us a better perspective to the big picture."

Perhaps it's no coincidence that the popularity of paddling sports has surged in this area as the world has gotten more and more complicated. Operators of East End businesses that rent and sell canoes and kayaks, as well as provide instruction and tours, say last year was a good one, and indications are that this season will be even busier.

"It's been going up and up," says Jim Dreeben, owner and president of the Peconic Paddler, which operates on the last piece of property in Riverhead before the North and South forks split. "Last year was better than the previous year, and this year is getting better."

Sara Agarabi, co-owner of Matt-A-Mar Marina in Mattituck, which has the only on-water rental facility on the North Fork, agrees. Canoeing and kayaking have become mainstream.

When it comes to canoeing and kayaking, few places can match the scenic splendor of the North Fork and Shelter Island, with coves and creeks that are ideal for peaceful exploration. Paddlers come from near and far to enjoy the accessible waters of this pristine paradise.

"It's a perfect spot because you have every type of water," notes Ms. Agarabi. "You have creeks. You have bays. You have a wide variety. You've got literally over a hundred miles to paddle" on the North Fork alone. There is also a river in Riverhead and the ocean off the South Fork for ambitious sea-kayakers.

"All Long Island is nice, but this is so well-protected here," adds Mr. Dreeben.

Jay Damuck, owner of Shelter Island Kayak Tours, gives two-hour guided tours, mostly in Coecles Harbor, which is bordered by protected wetlands and the Nature Conservancy's 2,000-acre Mashomack Preserve. The shallow harbor has little boat traffic and little current.

"A lot of the shore is just very serene," Mr. Damuck says. "It's really an ideal spot. People are really pretty blown away by it sometimes. You really see it in their faces. We're going into an area that's very quiet and very much unspoiled, and we're only a half-mile from the main road."

Peconic Paddler runs a four-hour trip that takes paddlers eight miles on the Peconic River -- from Manorville, where they are driven by the operator, back to Riverhead.

Another favorite spot is Peconic Bay. Paddlers can start in Riverhead and paddle east to Jamesport, Southold or Southampton, enjoying a bird sanctuary and plenty of beaches along the way. Hallock Bay in Orient, Gooseneck and Jockey creeks in Southold, and Richmond Creek in Peconic are also recommended.

Canoes and kayaks are relatively inexpensive ways to get onto the water. Kayaks can cost as little as $300 and canoes can go as cheaply as $600, and they require little maintenance. There are single-person and larger kayaks, small canoes and canoes that can accommodate several people and the family dog. A broad range of people can participate, from young children to senior citizens. Paddling is also good exercise, easy to learn and doesn't hurt the environment.

"With paddling, you leave nothing," Mr. Dreeben notes. "You leave a wake that disappears in a few seconds." "We have a saying in this business, Mr. Murphy adds: 'See it as it is; leave it as it was.' "

Other activities, such as bird watching, fishing, scuba diving, stargazing, picnicking and swimming, are often combined with kayaking and canoeing.

Although the modern-day popularity of kayaking and canoeing is something new, they actually go back 5,000 years, according to Mr. Damuck. "It was used for hunting and transportation, so it's linked to something primitive."

Nowadays, canoeing and kayaking can be regarded as some sort of therapeutic time machine. "In some strange way, I think when I'm out there alone, and there's no boats or cars around, it can sort of transport you back to the past a little bit," he says.

Another form of kayaking for the more adventurous sort -- surf kayaking -- is not as prevalent on the East End as in some places but is nonetheless gaining a following. Surf kayaks have an open deck with drain holes and no cockpit. Big waves aren't necessary. Even surfing in the bay on small rollers gives the sensation of speed. "You feel like you're going 100 miles per hour," says Mr. Dreeben.

Although some diehards paddle year-round, the busy season usually runs from Memorial Day to Labor Day, if not longer. "My weekends are going to be crazy from now until mid-October," Mr. Dreeben anticipates.

Even a veteran paddler like Mr. Murphy gets a reminder every now and then of just how beautiful his "outdoor work place" really is.

"When you do a lot of tours and go to the same place, sometimes you lose perspective," he says. "But when you see a customer come in from the city and take a deep breath and say, 'This place is beautiful,' you realize how special this place is."

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